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- | TELEVISION AND THE 1081 MONITOR |
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- | ...... D.I.Y. TV TUNER ...... |
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- | ...... by Steve Wright ...... |
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-
- I rather like the idea of having my 1081 monitor double as a
- T.V. at times when the Amiga is heavily engaged in doing dull and boring
- tasks (dull and boring to the eye that is) or just purely as a T.V.
- monitor when the thought of shooting up green meanies doesn't turn you
- on. For example, when compile time is the same as news time - why not
- have both?
-
- Most have done this by using the video out signal from their
- video recorder. That's O.K. if you have a spare video machine laying
- around doing zilch or a rich auntie Gladys who eventually takes the hint
- and gives you one for your birthday. If you're like me and have neither,
- there is a way to have VIP working and ALF yelling for around $60.
-
- Cheap T.V. tuners are not easily found. Tuner modules are a little
- more plentiful, but not much use on their own, and some of these were
- fairly expensive. Then looking through a monthly electronics mag I saw an
- ad for a Teletext tuner kit, price $59.95. So down I went to the store
- and upon inspecting the docs I decided to buy and try. Hmmm, video out,
- sound (mono), VHF & UHF range, seems just what I was looking for.
-
- The kit was complete with all components, assembled tuner module,
- P.C. board, tuning pot, transformer and docs. The unit was originally
- intended to be inserted in a teletext module (also a kit), so a few extra
- parts are necessary for our purpose. Namely :-
- a box to house it in (I housed mine in a 200*110*60 jiffy box),
- power switch (240V rated and preferably illuminated),
- 75 ohm T.V. socket, 2 RCA sockets (one for each of the video and sound
- outs), and small amount of wiring. The kit also came with a large decal
- which I cut down to suit, this gave the unit a neat front panel that
- didn't have that home made look.
-
- It won't be necessary for me to explain the assembly of the kit
- as the docs which come with it are very good. Converting it for our
- purpose is a piece of cake as well. The docs show where the three points
- are (video out, sound out, aerial in). So basica lly all that's needed to
- be done is find these points and wire them up to their corresponding
- sockets, easy. Ventilation is necessary as it does get quite warm, drill
- holes in the jiffy box for this or buy a ventilated box maybe easier.
-
- I guess I spent about 10-12 hours on it, but I've been told that
- I'm a bit of an old woman on these things, so it may not take that long
- for you.
-
- There was a snag though (isn't there always?) on completion. I
- had a beautiful clear picture on all channels but jumping intermittently.
- I found that the sync level was too low and at times losing it, causing
- the jumping. Enquiries from where I bought it found that an errata sheet
- was available to fix the problem. It involved a small alteration to the
- P.C. board. Make sure your kit has this errata sheet.
-
- The kit I purchased was a Dick Smith Teletext tuner module kit, part
- number K6319, price $59.95. I checked availability at time of writing and
- they tell there are plenty of them. The other parts used are common
- components (sockets, switch, wiring,box) and can be purchased anywhere.
-
- -----------------
-
- Now, this where the story normally ends, unfortunately in this
- case it doesn't. When connecting the video out from your new tuner to the
- CVBS IN on your 1081 monitor and the same for the sound, you will be
- graced with a crisp clear picture any TV buff wo uld be proud of, but
- turning on the computer will send the screen crazy. Why? Well, when we
- connect the tuner to the CVBS IN we can switch the video signal in and
- out via the front switch (CVBS/RGB) but this is not switching the sync
- signals on and off. The two sync signals together are causing the crazy
- picture when switched to CVBS mode. It can be fixed though, and quite
- easily.
-
- We need to switch the sync line on the RGB to off when we
- require the video to be viewed (CVBS ON). Luck has it that the CVBS/RGB
- switch is a two pole switch of which only one is used. Lets cut the PCB
- track leading to pin 20 of the RGB socket and run two wires from either
- side of the cut track and connect them to the unused pole of the switch.
- Note that the tracks leading from the unused pole go to holes where no
- parts have been fitted. The wiring should be shielded cable earthed at
- one end, preferably at the rear for ease of access. There it is, easy
- wasn't it! If you don't agree or feel confident with this mod, someone
- with electronics experience &/or someone who has already done this mod
- will have it done in no time (ask your local user group).
-
- Note that the mod described is for a 1081 not the 1084. The 1084
- is totally different in its construction. The sync signals are paired
- together and not buffered as on the 1081. I've heard of a successful mod
- done for the 1084 and it didn't sound all that difficult. Not having
- access to a 1084 monitor to try and test I can't offer much comment. Is
- there anyone out there who can ?
-
- -----------------------
-
- There is one other thing that can be done concerning the sound
- from the tuner as an option. You will notice that the sound level from
- the tuner is much higher than that from the Amiga and when mixed together
- (the CVBS/RGB switch dosn't cut the sound) the Amiga sound is drowned out.
- I quite often connect the sound of the Amiga to the stereo amp close by
- (great for sound progs). Below is a small schematic diagram of a
- switching arrangement where :-
- position (A) allows the Amiga sound to the amp and the tuner sound
- to the monitor ;
- position (B) allows the Amiga sound to the monitor and the tuner
- sound to the amp. Simple but effective.
-
-
-
-
- A *---------*--------------> amp L
- / |
- Amiga L >----------* |
- |
- B *-------+--------------> monitor L
- |
- A *-------+-------*------> amp R
- / | |
- Amiga R >----------* | |
- | |
- B *---*---+-------+------> monitor R
- | | |
- A *---- | |
- / # #
- Tuner >----------* | |
- | |
- B *----------------
-
-
- Note : # = small signal diode (eg IN914)
- Switch = 3 pole 2 position
- use shielded cable only
-
-
-
-
- till next time..............Steve Wright
-
-
-
- __
- /// ...And remember where you found this first :
- __ ///
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